John Lobb is among the most renowned manufacturers in the British shoemaking hub of Northampton, a city that earned its reputation as a center of footwear production in the 17th century. Although the brand has been under Hermes since 1976, the factory remains committed to the methods developed in the Victorian era.
Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. Specifically, the laser is not applied directly to the hides. Instead, lasers create plastic patterns, which are handed to specialized artisans called clickers. Their title comes from the distinctive “click” of the knife touching the cutting table. With special blades, they cut the hides manually.
Production is limited, with only 450–500 pairs made each week. This approach resembles bespoke work. Employees switch between twenty shoe types in a day, instead of repeating one routine step like in assembly-line workshops. Every shoe is built with the Goodyear method, allowing a leaky sole to be removed without damaging the upper.
As with Hermes, John Lobb sources the best-quality hides, particularly from premium French calfskin. Only about sixty percent is suitable for cutting, while the remainder becomes smaller accessories.
The line combines heritage designs with contemporary tweaks. The City II black Oxfords, for instance, have been given a more elegant outline. The Sennen shoes gained refined buckles and a more robust foundation. The Lopez loafers, introduced in the 1950s, received subtle color and sole innovations. Newer icons include the Porth model and the Levah sneakers, which are released each season in a mix of colors and materials.
Through its balance of heritage and innovation, John Lobb remains a defining name in the British footwear industry.
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